It took us three quarters of our holiday to realise there is far more to Supetar on the little Croatian island of Brac (pronounced Bratch) than we realised.We are staying slightly east of the main harbour, the blissfully quiet, largely unspoiled part of the town. Last night, we discovered the west side and it was all very familiar.
The harbour here is simply beautiful, surrounded as it is by excellent restaurants and bars. The boats bob up and down in the gentle evening breeze and there are often groups of musicians and singers performing to substantial crowds. It’s safe and it’s clean.
The Supetar we discovered last night appears safe and clean, too, but far livelier. There are large numbers of bars and fast food outlets, there is an enormous football ‘stadium’ where large crowds gather to watch, eat, drink and listen to loud music. The transition from sleepy Croatian harbour is complete as you come across store after store of holiday tat.
Disappointed? In a way, yes. I love the tranquil air we breathe during the day and during the evening. I don’t like to feel hurried or pressured at the best of times, least of all on holiday. Our solution will be simple: we won’t go there again. But if I feel minor disappointment that the town isn’t all like I imagined, I am very relieved that we are staying where we are.
We are, I suspect, in the minority. There was no shortage of holiday makers joining in the hustle and bustle, queuing for ‘fast food’ and enjoying ‘Sex on the Beach’ (a cocktail, by the way. The stony, pebbly beaches will certainly have an impact on those who feel the need to a quickie). It certainly had an effect on me: I just wanted to get back to the quiet area across town.
I am certainly no holiday snob and don’t consider my preferred holiday as better than anyone else’s. I’ve just been reminded that not everyone likes the same kind of holiday as me. And there’s nothing wrong with that!